What many find so enchanting about Greece is that family ties are still massively important and the festive season is still mainly a time of religious and family orientated celebrations, not the somewhat commercial event that some feel it has become in many parts of the world today.
Greek holiday celebrations are already in full swing by December 6th, the Feast of St. Nicholas, and last until January 6th, the Feast of Epiphany. Christmas is celebrated on December 25th, but presents are usually given on January 1st, St. Basil’s Day (Agios Vassilis).
The beginnings of Christmas in Greece go back to the time of St. Nicholas, who was the Bishop of Myra in the 3rd century AD. He was also the patron saint of sailors and for that reason you will often see boats decorated with many sparkling lights around this time.
Called Xristouyenna, which means ‘Christ’s birth’, in the past Christmas was not as important a holiday as Easter but this is gradually changing and now you’ll find lavish decorations and lights strung across most of the streets in major cities and towns with celebrations laid on. Athens in particular has responded to Christmas in a big way and a huge Christmas tree can be seen towering above busy Syntagma Square, surrounded by all sorts of entertainment for family members of all ages.
There are many Christmas customs in Greece that are similar to those in the UK. For instance, on Christmas Eve, village children move from house to house singing the equivalent of Christmas Carols, called ‘kalanda’. The children accompany these songs by playing on small metal triangles and little clay drums and are usually rewarded with sweets or a few small coins.
In other cultures Christmas elves appear; in Greece the equivalent is the Kalikantzari. They are mischievous, jet-black little creatures like goblins or gnomes who are thought to emerge from the centre of the earth to play tricks on people. They are apparently active only in the twelve days between Christmas and Epiphany and, because they are believed to come through the chimney, the fire is kept burning to keep them at bay. Pity Santa if he chooses this route!
In many parts of Greece over this period people hang a pomegranate above their front door. By the New Year, when the fruit has dried, Greeks throw it on the ground, breaking it, and step over it into their house on their right foot. According to tradition this brings good luck for the year ahead. Also it’s considered lucky for a child to be the first person to step over your doorstep on New Year’s Day, ideally with a plant called the skylokremmyda in hand, again right foot first. The lucky child is rewarded with a gift of money for the New Year.
Needless to say, food plays a large part in the celebrations – this IS Greece after all! Lamb and pork are roasted and on almost every table are loaves of christopsomo or ‘Christ bread’. This bread is usually made in large, sweet loaves of various shapes with the crusts decorated in some way that displays the family’s profession. There is also a New Year’s cake called the vassilopita. A coin is wrapped in foil and then placed in the cake before baking. The cake is ceremoniously cut by the head of the household and it is believed that whoever gets the slice containing the coin or flouri will have good luck for the year ahead.
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