Who Pays The Ferryman?

Another 5.6mm of rain fell overnight as I recall waking up to hear the sound of rain on the over-roof. It had stopped by the time I wanted to go out with the dogs and only fine droplets were visible in the light of my torch.

We completed the Promontory section and waited a little for Charlie and Luis to catch up. Luis was further behind and required some more persuasive measures to get his attention. He finally arrived and we continued on our way. I got them together again before passing Plakaki Hotel and we continued once more.

Further on, there’s a road bridge under which a river flows after rain during winter. The beach route was now blocked by fast-flowing water which we inspected before retracing our steps to Plakaki.

Once past Plakaki, we continued on up the beach to find another river which had not been there when we passed on the way out. There is a weir further upstream that holds back the water which is later pumped up the mountain to provide irrigation and presumably drinking water for Kountoura. With the rain, the weir was lowered at about the time we were passing so we were now cut off between two rivers. An option was to walk to one of the bridges and to follow the road but, without any leads, that would be problematic.

We waited, and I placed markers which indicated the water level was falling. We waited some more and I tried various river redirection works which had little effect. Franca and Mauro came running along the beach on the other side of the river followed by Rug. Isabella and Skinny had already crossed the river several times as they are equipped with long legs and determination. As Rug drew closer Obi launched himself into the water and swam across followed shortly after by Luis. He was carried away by the strong current in the direction of the sea but managed to make it to the other side albeit much further down than from whence he’d started. Rug and the four dogs seemed to be getting along well enough and Charlie contented himself making a lot of noise rather than swimming the river.

We came to the conclusion that the river was too difficult to cross so the Swiss turned back and were seen in the distance crossing the river via the road bridge.

Time passed. The water level had dropped but I could see that crossing the river with dry feet was not going to be an option. I waded across to join Skinny and Luis who were still on the other side as Obi had swum back. Both dogs had investigated the sloppy mud further upstream. Luis was covered in mud and Skinny just had different coloured legs to his body.

The other dogs were not up for crossing the river and the current appeared to have increased. I ended up ferrying them across one at a time. Once my feet and legs were wet there was little to lose. Franca appeared again to see how we were doing but I was transporting the final dog at this point. Isabella ‘helped’ by playfully splashing her way across each time I went for the next smaller dog to transport.

Together, we walked back to the camping where I fed the dogs. It was around 09:30 so my intended shopping trip to Petrakis had been put on hold.

At least by this time, it was sunny and warm although now the wind had got up. It wasn’t raining and dull which is the main bonus.

We had our breakfasts and then I put on a wash for Alma followed by another just before I set off for Petrakis around 13:00. Robert was preparing to leave to catch his ferry from Souda so I wished him a good journey back to Germany.

Petrakis was quite busy but I managed to get most of what I needed including a large cabbage and a reasonably-priced cauliflower. Most of the cabbage will go in the dogs and the leaves and centre of the cauliflower too. I bought some spinach so was able to put the stems in with the Doggy Dinners which I prepared when I got back.

The afternoon went quickly so I’ve just finished grinding up the Doggy Dinners which are now cooling so they have a chance of eating them at a reasonable time.

They have been quite relaxed as I should imagine they are tired following all the excitement earlier. There was some sunshine which made them sleepy although some preferred to remain inside the van. The wind is still with us until tomorrow morning.

When cycling back, I noticed new streetlights on the section of road from Paleochora to where the cliff is being remodelled. I’m hoping they are LED lights not that I expect them to be turned on much like many other sections of road. They are part of the package I suppose and I’m not entirely sure why it’s necessary to illuminate the road at all.

For once, I’m ahead. The Doggy Dinners are nearly cool enough for them to eat so they will get their meal whilst it’s still light for a change. I will be happy to retire inside and await the spinach and potatoes which are still cooking in the Pot.

Despite a couple of dull and miserable days, my batteries are almost fully charged after today’s sunshine.


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